Forest Dunes is the best all-around golf retreat in the Midwest, and The Loop is the reason serious golfers make it a pilgrimage. Two reversible courses on one routing -- played in opposite directions on consecutive days -- is a concept that works completely, and the Tom Doak design covers all 18 holes with precision. The remote northern Michigan setting adds to the experience rather than limiting it.
Courses included
The trip experience
Get the even/odd rule right before you book, because it decides half the trip. The Loop plays clockwise -- the Black routing -- on even calendar dates, and counter-clockwise, the Red routing, on odd ones. Same 18 greens and fairways both ways, and it's not a marketing trick: approach angles flip, the background behind every green changes, and a hole that played receptive one direction turns into a genuine puzzle the other way. Tom Doak spent something like thirty years wanting to build this before Forest Dunes gave him the land to actually do it.
Forest Dunes itself, the original course, is Tom Weiskopf's design, not Doak's -- easy mix-up since they sit on the same property, but it's a different guy and a different personality entirely. The front nine is parkland, pine corridors, almost Augusta-adjacent in feel. Then the back nine turns into exposed native sand and scruffy waste areas that people keep comparing to Pine Valley, and the comparison isn't just marketing either. Play it first. It's the honest test that sets up everything else, and it doesn't ask you to survive anything, just to think.
"The back nine turns into exposed native sand and scruffy waste areas that people keep comparing to Pine Valley, and the comparison isn't just marketing."
The Loop is walking-only with caddies available, and you'll want one the first time through -- not because it's brutal, but because reading a green you can't fully trust from one routing to the next is an entirely different skill than reading a normal course. Somebody in every group insists they've got the Black figured out after playing it once, then gets quietly humbled by the Red the next morning on the exact same piece of ground.
Bootlegger closes the day, and it's a different sport entirely rather than a lesser course. Ten holes, 50 to 150 yards, built by Keith Rhebb and Riley Johns specifically so grandkids and scratch golfers can play it together without either one being bored. Flip flops are basically the uniform. The Bootlegger Bar sits right on the property overlooking the bye hole, and that's where the day's actual stories get told -- more of them than anywhere else on property, including the 19th hole at Forest Dunes.
Dinner rotates between two easy calls. The Dining Room handles the trip's one real sit-down night -- vaulted ceiling, fieldstone fireplace, no need to book it weeks out. Keeper's Pub is the default the other nights: five TVs, a straightforward menu, the kind of place you end up at without ever discussing it because nobody wants to leave golf mode.
"Keeper's Pub is the kind of place you end up at without ever discussing it, because nobody wants to leave golf mode."
36 holes a day is close to mandatory here, and the obvious pairing is Forest Dunes in the morning, Loop in the afternoon. You can't get both Loop routings in the same day the way you might assume -- the direction is locked to the calendar date, not chosen at the first tee, so seeing Red and Black both means planning the trip across at least one even date and one odd date. The one exception is "The Dual," a 36-hole event the resort runs on the last day of any 31-day month, where groups play one direction in the morning and the other that afternoon. Outside of that, don't front-load a 36-hole day on arrival -- play something fresh first and save the double until you know the land a little.
Nobody's leaving the property much, and that's by design more than limitation. There's no beach, no spa scene, nothing pulling attention away from the golf, which is exactly the pitch for the group this trip is actually built for. Roscommon town is ten minutes away if anyone needs a break from the routine, but most groups never bother making the drive.
Summer is the window that matters -- long light, firm fescue on the Loop, the kind of conditions the reversible routing was built to show off. Fall brings color and a real chill in the mornings, worth it if the group packs layers and accepts an earlier sunset cutting into the back nine.
Side trips & bonus golf
Arcadia Bluffs is the natural extension for groups with a spare day: 90 minutes northwest, two courses with completely different personalities, and a Lake Michigan backdrop that looks nothing like Roscommon's pines and sand. The Bluffs Course delivers dramatic lakefront golf; the South Course is the strategic counterweight that earns equal time. Treat them as a paired day trip rather than a bonus round on the way out.
The Bear at Grand Traverse Resort, 45 minutes toward Traverse City, fits cleanly into an arrival or departure day: tighter corridors, more punishing green complexes, and a track that contrasts sharply with Forest Dunes. Bay Harbor near Petoskey adds polished resort golf with Lake Michigan frontage, a tonal shift from the pines-and-sand identity that makes a good scenic finale to a northern Michigan loop. Threetops at Treetops in Gaylord is 9 par-3 holes under $50: the low-commitment competitive add-on for a travel day when the group wants one more without another full scorecard.
Sleeping Bear Dunes is about 2 hours northwest and worth a rest-day drive: massive sand dunes rising directly from Lake Michigan with sweeping views of the Manitou Islands. The Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive takes under an hour. It's the one natural landmark in northern Michigan that earns the same "worth the detour" conversation as the golf courses, and fits cleanly into a morning before a South Course afternoon tee time.
Is this trip right for your group?
- ✓Book this trip if the Tom Doak reversible Loop has been on your golf bucket list
- ✓Book this trip if your group values architecture and smart design over spectacle and scenery
- ✓Book this trip if walking 36 holes in a day is something your group actually wants to do
- ✓Book this trip if you prefer a quiet, self-contained golf retreat over a resort with non-golf amenities
- ✓Book this trip if playing the same course twice and having it feel different appeals to your group
- ✓Book this trip if Bootlegger as an evening ritual -- 10 holes of music, low stakes, and "one more" -- sounds exactly right
- ✓Book this trip if you want a destination that gets better on return visits once you understand the land
- ✗Skip this trip if you need a resort with a spa, beach access, or significant non-golf entertainment
- ✗Skip this trip if your group prefers visually dramatic scenery over architectural depth
- ✗Skip this trip if warm-weather guarantees matter -- northern Michigan summers are excellent but not predictable
- ✗Skip this trip if you're not interested in stacking multiple rounds per day
- ✗Skip this trip if you want a wide variety of off-property dining and nightlife options
When to go
- Longest daylight of the year: 36-hole days are genuinely feasible with 9+ hours of light available
- Green fees are highest at $185-215 per round plus $30 cart (May 28-Sep 28)
- The Loop's fescue plays firm and fast in summer: the ideal surface for the reversible routing
- Book 3-6 months out for July and August weekends, which fill the fastest
- Weather is reliably comfortable: highs in the 70s-80s, cool mornings and evenings in the pines
- Green fees drop $30-50 per round from peak; the same architecture at meaningfully lower cost ($145-165/round)
- Fall colors arrive mid-September and make Forest Dunes and The Loop visually spectacular
- September course conditions are excellent: firm fairways, receptive greens, and quieter tee sheets
- Spring (May) means softer conditions, fewer crowds, and cool mornings that warm up by the back nine
- Pack layers: mornings and evenings in shoulder season can drop to the 40s-50s even in late May
- Forest Dunes closes after mid-October; the season runs late April through October only
- Northern Michigan sees snow and freezing temperatures from November through March
- No golf available on property November through late April
- The area is worth considering for snowmobiling or other winter activities if non-golf days are part of the plan
What a Roscommon trip costs
| Item | Peak | Shoulder | Off-Season |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tee fees (4 rounds + Bootlegger) | $920–$1,035 | $700–$800 | |
| Lodging (3 nights, on-property) | $525–$900 | $300–$600 | |
| Food & drink (on-property) | $300–$450 | $250–$400 | |
| Rental car | $100-$200 | $100-$200 | $300-$500 |
| Total (est.) | $1,845–$2,585 | $1,350–$2,000 | $300–$500 |
| Item | Peak |
|---|---|
| Tee fees (4 rounds + Bootlegger) | $920–$1,035 |
| Lodging (3 nights, on-property) | $525–$900 |
| Food & drink (on-property) | $300–$450 |
| Rental car | $100-$200 |
| Total (est.) | $1,845–$2,585 |
Per-person estimates for a 4-round, 3-night trip including Bootlegger. Cart fees ($30/round) are not included in the base green fee and add roughly $120 per person. Excludes flights. All-in: $1,850-$2,600 peak, $1,350-$2,000 shoulder.
How tee times and lodging actually work
- 1The Loop alternates by calendar dateRed routing plays on even calendar dates, Black on odd. You cannot choose your direction -- plan your trip dates around which routing you want each day.
- 2Overnight guests book before day visitorsOn-property lodging gives you earlier access to tee times. Confirm your lodge reservation before calling the pro shop.
- 3Prebooked replays must be reserved in advanceA discounted second round on either course can be locked in ahead of time. Availability replays are day-of only and not guaranteed.
- 4Bootlegger is walk-only and opens at 11amElectric carts are not permitted on the short course. Only the first Bootlegger round of the day can be prebooked.
- 5Dress code applies to Forest Dunes and The LoopNo denim; Collared shirts required. The rule is enforced at the bag drop.
Common mistakes
- !Not checking the Loop routing before booking datesBlack plays on even calendar dates, Red on odd. If you want both directions, your trip needs to span at least two different days.
- !Stacking two full championship rounds on day oneThe courses are walkable but the architecture is mentally demanding. Play fresh on day one; Save the 36-hole days for once you know the land.
- !Treating Bootlegger as optionalIt's ten holes of music, low-stakes competition, and the best social energy on the trip. The groups that skip it always regret it.
- !Playing only one Loop direction and leavingRed and Black are genuinely two different courses. Playing just one routing is like reading half a book.
- !Underestimating the Forest Dunes back nineThe exposed native sand areas and strategic green complexes make the back nine significantly harder than the front. Don't get lulled into a false score on the outward half.
- !Missing the Bootlegger Bar after roundsThe covered outdoor bar overlooking the bye hole is the best post-round gathering spot on property. It's where the trip's best stories get told.
What to pack
Sample itinerary
- Day 1Arrive + Pacific DunesFly into North Bend (OTH), 30 minutes from the resort. One course on arrival day — save your legs for tomorrow. Play Bandon Preserve if you get in early enough.
- Day 2Bandon Dunes + Old MacdonaldThe two boldest courses back to back. Bandon Dunes first while you are sharp; Old Mac in the afternoon when you are loose enough to enjoy the creative chaos.
- Day 3Bandon Trails + DepartBandon Trails is the easiest keep on this itinerary. Sheep Ranch is the easiest cut — add it with an early tee time if you want all five and can handle a late departure.
Where to stay & eat
Know before you book.
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